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Meru Peak is a mountain located in the Garhwal Division Himalayas, in the state of Uttarakhand in India. The peak lies between Thalay Sagar and Shivling, and has some highly challenging routes. The name Meru likely originated from the Sanskrit word for "peak".
The mountain was formerly the site of the world's highest BASE jumping from a location on the surface of the Earth by Glenn Singleman and Heather Swan, from a height of , in June 2006, a record which has since been surpassed by Valery Rozov's 2013 jump from the North Face of Mount Everest.Blog by one of the BASE Jump climbing team
The mountain has three distinct peaks: southern (), central (), and northern (). The two higher peaks were climbed earlier than the harder central peak, which was first climbed in a 2001 solo ascent by Valery Babanov, twice by other teams in 2006, and for the first time along the "Shark's Fin" route in 2011.
The route begins after a two-day approach, a 700m snow slope and a rock ramp. Next, is a steep, overhanging wall nicknamed the "Indian Ocean Wall" climbed with Aid climbing up to A4 difficulty. This is followed by the "Crystal Pitch", an overhanging and exposed section of aid climbing. The last section combines mixed and aid climbing.
A serious attempt was made by the primarily British team of Paul Pritchard, Johnny Dawes, Noel Craine, Dave Kendall and Philip Lloyd in 1993. This failure included Dawes losing a boot, and later having a major fall.
Further unsuccessful attempts followed in the 1990s included Scott Backes. In 1997, Nick Bullock, Jules Cartwright and Jamie Fisher achieved a height of 6,100m.
Pete Takeda and Dave Sheldon made three attempts, in 1998, 1999 and 2001, all unsuccessful.
In 2001, Russian Valery Babanov climbed the bottom part of the route to 5,800m before descending. He summited via a different route, which became known as "Shangri-La", later the same year. This was the first time Meru Central had been summited, by any route.
In 2003, Americans Conrad Anker, Doug Chabot and Bruce Miller completed the bottom part of the wall, before veering off onto ice flutings, then eventually turning back.
In 2004, Japanese climbers Hiroyoshi Manome, Yasushi Okada, Makoto Kuroda, and Yasuhiro Hanatani failed after an accident injured one of the team members. The same team attempted again in 2006, but departed the Shark's Fin to reach the summit.
In October 2006, Czech climbers Marek Holecek and Jan Kreisinger attempted the route, but departed the ridge halfway up to successfully pursue an easier route to the summit.
In 2008, the team of Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk climbed to within two pitches (150m) of the summit before turning back. They had experienced severe storms, forcing them to spend four days in the portaledge, depleting their food supplies.
In 2009, Slovenians Silvo Karo, Marko Lukic and Andrej Grmovsek unsuccessfully attempted the route, turning around at the base of the headwall, due to insufficient gear, poor acclimatisation and an Alpine-style approach.
The first successful climb of the route was made in October 2011 by Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk, the same team that had narrowly failed in 2008. The attempt was made only 5 months after Ozturk suffered serious spinal and skull injuries while skiing, Chin also almost subsequently died in a severe avalanche on the same ski trip four days after Ozturk's accident. They overcame a broken portaledge, and a "mini-stroke" suffered by Ozturk, but cited excellent weather as a major factor in their success, which was recognized also by Guinness World Records as the first ascent of this peak. They reached the summit on their eighth day, then it took them three days to descend.
In 2015, the feature film Meru was released, documenting Anker's team's two attempts on the route. It included footage taken by Chin and Ozturk on both attempts, originally intended just for posterity.
On 2 September 2023, the world's first successful climb to Meru South peak (6660m) from the West face was made by Indian team of Mingma Sherpa, Vinod Gusain, Ganesh More, Vivek Shivade, Varun Bhagwat, Bihari Singh Rana, Ajit Singh Rawat, Furtenzing Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa from Giripremi Moutaineering club, Pune, India. The expedition was led by Umesh Zirpe. In 2024, the documentary film, 'The Ascent of Mt. Meru' based on the same expedition was screened at Rio Mountain Festival, Brazil and Torello Mountain Film Festival, Spain.
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